Christmas in Abu Dhabi

This was the first holiday season for Miranda and I as husband and wife so we wanted to go big and we were not going to let the desert's 90-degree temperatures thaw our Christmas spirit.

So I guess it all started with a tree. It's not like they are just growing in the sand.

We maneuvered through a crazy weekend crowd at the local Carrefour to purchase our Christmas tree and other decorations. I was actually surprised they designated an entire aisle to the festive holiday season that was full of ornaments, reefs and grown-up Santa costumes.

Of course I bought the latter without thinking twice.

Back at Carrefour, they even had these little three-foot Santa figurines that shimmied around and played music every time you pushed a button. While I was trying to decide on which Santa to purchase -- the one with a saxophone and sunglasses or the rock n' roll one with a guitar -- Miranda drew a line in the sand.

"This is great but where are we going to store all this stuff after Christmas?" she asked.

She made a great point because we live in a one-bedroom apartment. But it was the most festive apartment in our building, we made sure of that. And in case you were wondering, yes, those are homemade snowflakes in the window.

When it comes to Christmas in the UAE, we were told religion takes a back seat to the overall party. Miranda and I learned this when we had coffee with her colleague from Dubai, who was born and raised in Tunisa.

As we sipped our Starbucks, he explained that if it involves a party, then everyone from the UAE likes to get involved. Sure, this may have just been his opinion and he did not speak for the entire country, but the malls were definitely onboard and my local liquor store was in a festive mood.

Unfortunately, I still had to work on Christmas day. Someone had to put out a newspaper.

But the higher ups at The National hosted a low-key turkey dinner for all the newsroom folks, which was a nice gesture and another example that everyone likes to get in on the celebration. People from all different backgrounds, countries and religions lined up for that feast.

The one thing we had in common: we worked in the media.

And whenever free food is exposed inside any newsroom, it never lasts long. Yes, we are a spry bunch. But still, I do appreciate that people from all walks of life observe Christmas here. It was a warm reception we were not expecting.

But the one thing I will always remember from this holiday season in Abu Dhabi is when Miranda and I went to Carols In The Desert, which was hosted by St. Andrews Church.

What was it, you ask? More than 1,500 expats and their kids gathered in the middle of the desert to sing, camp and spread festive cheer. It was the perfect blend of Christmas celebration and desert chill (when the sun went down, of course).

Just good people and good times.

From our desert family to yours, we wish you a Merry Christmas. And to all a good night.

One whole year in the sand box

As I sit here and look past the flickering lights on our Christmas tree and focus on the distant palm trees and mangroves outside my window, I am forced to examine where my life was one year ago.

This time last year, I was struggling to keep my emotions in check as I hugged Miranda, my girlfriend at the time, outside a simple breakfast diner near Minneapolis. I was about to board a plane for the Middle East in a few hours and my immediate future was very uncertain.

My first day working at The National was December 15, 2012 and it was conveniently the day after I first set foot in this country. When duty calls, there's no time for jet lag.

The initial transition was anything but smooth. I was so ill during the trip that my colleague, Steve, who was also making his UAE debut, felt like he was talking to a corpse during the 15-hour flight over the Atlantic Ocean on a packed Etihad plane.

That first month was spent at the Royal Ramee Hotel & Apartments, which was down the block from my office (which was good) and also had a free daily breakfast (which was not so good). The "American sausages" looked like under-cooked hot dogs and the tinfoil presentation always reminded me that I was dining in style...

But a quick glance outside my window offered incredible views of serene desert sunsets and the popular mosque across the street.

Then came Christmas.

I will never forget that holiday season because it was my first away from home.

All my office mates and very new friends were nice but trust me, it is never a good idea to re-locate just 10 days before Santa comes to town. It doesn't matter if it is the Middle East, Japan or Tuscaloosa, Alabama.

Those were lonely days and just getting over the sickness from hell did not help things. But like I always do, I made the best of it and got a little help from my friends.

A fellow production editor at the newspaper, Rich, took it upon himself to entertain me with a few beers after deadline on Christmas eve. Rich is also a fine American and I think he saw a fellow countrymen in need.

We went to a swank place called Stars 'N Bars on Yas Island, feasted on over-sized cheeseburgers and washed it down with cold Budwesier while we gazed at the gaudy Viceroy Hotel, which lit up the early-morning sky. Yes, this is the hotel with a Formula One track that goes underneath it.

Unfortunately, during that particular holiday season, there were no Christmas carols and there were no stockings stuffed with care.

So last night after deadline, we hoped into Rich's car again and set a course for Yas Island to celebrate my one-year anniversary in the sand box. This time, we had another production editor, CB, from India, with us in tow as we reflected on what has been the past year at The National.

It was just fitting that the surrounding area around Stars 'N Bars was under heavy construction during last year's holiday season and during our current visit, Rich gave us a quick tour of all the new restaurants, cafes and clubs that have sprung up.

It's like the players are the same but the game has changed. A year has passed and things have improved in a very good way.

I'm not one to promote useless milestones, unless there really is something to celebrate. Living in Abu Dhabi this past year has presented many challenges as there has been many twists in my professional and personal life.

Planning a wedding from abroad and then actually getting married to the woman I love has definitely been the highlight for me in 2013. We have also built a home together over this past year in Abu Dhabi and it looks like a 7-star luxury hotel compared to the old Royal Ramee.

As an exciting new year is about to start for Miranda and I, we're not really sure what is in store for us while living in the desert. How long will we live in the sand box? What new adventures are on the horizon? And should we open the red or white wine?

All I can say is stay tuned...

Life struggles all Expats understand

I usually try not to waste my time with all the buzzfeed links that pop up on facebook but this one about Expats and their common struggles caught my eye and seemed to make some sense.

I've essentially been an expat since 2009 and even though I do love America, the adventures abroad are getting more interesting everyday and I'm glad to be on the move.

I'm a better person because of traveling. My wife Miranda shares the passion and we just feel we have to strike while the iron is hot. That intense urge to travel continues to build inside each of us and it's something we really enjoy because we can share it together.

Sure, there are daily struggles living in another country. There is no denying that. But every hurdle we get past makes us stronger in the long run.

As for our unexplained desire to see the world, I think it all goes back to the famous quote: "The more you learn, the more you realize how little you know."

In essence, visiting foreign places makes us hungry for more. The world is so huge and we've seen just a tiny piece of it. Some places are rubbish; some are amazing. But we will never know for sure unless we see it for yourselves. The options are endless.

So for good or ill, I implore everyone to get out there. Whether it is across an ocean, to the other side of your own country or simply to the next town over. The ups and downs may overwhelm you but at the very least, when you really look back on everything, it's all about the ride.

Or I can just let my man Anthony Bourdain explain. He said it best:

“Travel changes you. As you move through this life and this world you change things slightly, you leave marks behind, however small. And in return, life - and travel - leaves marks on you. Most of the time, those marks - on your body or on your heart - are beautiful. Often, though, they hurt.”

Thankful on Thanksgiving

Shortly after a turkey feast and a full bottle of red wine, I got to lay eyes on this good-looking group. Yes, if it wasn't for Skype, I would not be able to join my family for Thanksgiving or check out the progress of my brother's Movember mustache.

I don't get to Skype with them as much as I would like. With the 8-hour time difference between the UAE and the U.S. East Coast, it makes for a lot of late evenings but it is always worth it.

Like I said before, we had already finished a late dinner and were about to head out the door for an Expat Thanksgiving party. On the other side of the world, they were just getting started on their afternoon appetizers and were still drinking their morning bloody marys.

Of course I missed being home but Thanksgiving in the desert was quite a delight.

The boss gave me the day off. He is also a fine American so it was a basic request email: "Boss, can I have Nov. 28 off for... Well, obvious reasons."

Unfortunately, Miranda was called into work in the afternoon because some big-time Russians were in town and her services were needed at the hotel. I was not going to let a bunch of Ruskies spoil our day so I got cleaned up, I threw some "traditional Thanksgiving music" onto the YouTube and prepared for my lady's return.

This is what Thanksgiving in a box looks like:

Because we were stretched for time, we ordered a complete dinner to-go from Marco Pierre White Steakhouse and it was sensational. Yes, a huge delicious turkey was inside that black box.

Miranda, undeterred by working on such a grand holiday, hauled it home and the package had all the fixings. I even learned how to trim a full turkey like a real man.

The Skype date with our family was the highlight for the night but two days later, Miranda and I were fortunate enough to host some local servicemen at the Fairmont Hotel in Abu Dhabi for lunch.

There was no turkey involved but since these fine young men could not have Thanksgiving with their families, we thought that enjoying an afternoon with two random Americans would suffice.

It was a treat just to chat with these guys. Most of them were from the Army but a few were in the Air Force.

They were from all walks of life. From all over the country. Good people.

They feasted like kings and then they indulged in some shisha while sitting poolside. It was a grand afternoon. A little touch of civic duty on a special day made me proud to be an American (in the desert).

The Killers at Sandance in Dubai

Imagine this: You are a mega music star.

Think along the lines of Beyoncé, Metallica, Depeche Mode or Jay Z.

You just got done touring Europe and you're setting your sights on the Far East or Australia. But before you make that trip, why not score one more major gig in between?

Enter Abu Dhabi or Dubai.

The UAE has quickly become the sandy highway rest stop for international rock n' roll tours and Dubai's Sandance, a five-star music festival, held on the beach at Atlantis, The Palm is among one of the best entertainment spectacles of the year.

Miranda and I, along with some heavy-drinking friends, descended on Dubai with plenty of good intentions. Of course, it was an epic adventure because I started the day at brunch with these lovely ladies.

I know. I am a very lucky man.

Then it was onto the Atlantis. When the sun was still out and with relaxed souls rested on beach towels in the sand, the show opened with The Wailers. Only one original member was there but it was quite a treat to listen to some good reggae in the middle of the desert.

The drinks started to flow and then the show took another step when Of Monsters And Men came on. I personally thought they sucked. Too many weak lyrics and they had no energy but the Brits absolutely loved them.

During all the madness, the place really started to fill up. Miranda and I found a good spot about 10 rows from the stage during the reggae so we posted up there the whole day. Somehow, our friends were able to find us. I think it's because we wore these red hats. Plus, I'm tall and that always helps.

The Killers were the headline act and they put on a pretty good show. We left just before their final encore because we thought we could get a head start on our exit strategy. Shot this quick video as we tried to break through the frenzied crowd...

Indeed, we were not so lucky with our exit.

The cabbies in Dubai are jerks. At least they were that night. Nothing like the honest and hard-working taxi drivers in Abu Dhabi. The Dubai drivers wanted to negotiate prices with you before they even unlocked their passenger door.

We were staying at the Fairmont at the Palm, which did not bode well for us. From the Atlantis, it would be a short trip and these jack ass cabbies knew they could swindle some big-time dirhams for other tired-legged concert goers headed back into the city. Many of cabbies straight up said "no" when I told them where we needed a ride. No bartering. Nothing.

So we got to the steppin'.

Eventually, we found somebody to give us a ride and we rested our rockstar bones in style by ordering room service and taking a late-night soak in the bath tub. Sorry, you do not get to see any pictures from that part.

The next day, I shook off the concert cobwebs, ignored that constant ringing in my ears and had little trouble trying to negotiate my way off the famous palm tree island in Dubai.

Yes, a very dangerous photo: one hand on the GPS, one hand on the camera while the wheel on the bus goes round and round...

It was another great 24-hour freakout in Dubai, considered by many to be the Adult Playground of the Middle East.

After we left the city limits and we're instantly intrenched by the desolate desert, it was just another high-speed, flat-out burn back to Abu Dhabi. Back to safety. Obscurity.

Fire too hot in Abu Dhabi

So the other night, I was grilling on my balcony when two fire trucks, an ambulance and an emergency pickup truck pulled up and created another traffic jam in front of my building.

"Trouble in the neighborhood," I thought, before flipping my steaks. I didn't think much of it at the time but I guess it sparked some interest so I snapped a few photos.

It was actually the first time I had ever seen fire trucks in this fair city. I feel like in America, they are paraded around all the time as they have a constant presence.

Not here. So any time multiple trucks show up, one would think something out of Backdraft is consuming a building with screaming orphans trying to jump out windows.

About 10 minutes after their trucks pulled up, I noticed a little commotion on the streets.

"Hmm, lots of trouble in the neighborhood," I thought before walking back into my apartment to pour another glass of wine. My lady and I were about to sit down to a delicious dinner and she was inside the kitchen working on mashed potatoes, fresh salad and sautéed mushrooms.

A few minutes later, I heard someone on the balcony next door screaming Arabic into a walkie talkie of some sort. Then it hit me... Oh shit.

The door bell rings.

Next thing I know, we had eight emergency responders huddled inside our apartment looking for a blaze. Most of them took off their shoes before they entered, which was polite but how are you going to fight a fire in your socks?

After they saw a dinner table set and when I showed them the two tenderloins comfortably sizzling on the grill, frustration came to a head and about half of them turned around and stormed out.

There were a few stern warnings from my building's security guard, who had to look tough in front of the almighty firemen but I think the general consensus was that this was a huge waste of their time.

It was the product of paranoid neighbors, I reckon. Sure I like to spray a little lighter fluid on the charcoals to get them going. What American doesn't like to do that? How else are you supposed to start a charcoal grill??



Are you even allowed to have open grills on the balconies in our building? I'm not sure. But this is not the time nor the place to start a debate. I was right; they were wrong. Let's leave it at that.

Oh, and after all the commotion, the steaks were delicious...

A little brunch action in the UAE

Back when I was a wee lad, my mother would take me to a Bob's Big Boy restaurant and we would indulge in their breakfast buffet. The whole gluttony of food concept was just taking off in the States at the time.

All you can eat? Sounds like a challenge to me.

For a youngster, there was nothing better than getting chocolate chip pancakes with syrup and powdered sugar on top, followed by a bowl of Fruit Loops and perhaps a visit to the make-your-own-sundae bar to top it all off.

More than twenty years later and the game has changed a bit. Now the words 'breakfast buffet' have been replaced with 'brunch' and in the UAE, there's no cereal but enough champagne to drown a thirsty French mob.

First off, let me mention that around these parts, the boozy brunch every Friday is a big social scene. Gals get dressed up, dudes bring their appetites and everyone goes hard.

Just about every major hotel hosts one but the best one is at the Fairmont Hotel in Abu Dhabi.

Different action stations represent different regions from around the world.

They send an army of servers around to make sure your champagne glass is never half empty and the cooks are always there to slice your prime rib or put gravy on just about anything...

My make-your-own-sundae days have sort of passed me by but anyone with a sweet tooth could do some serious damage here. As you can see, the spread was incredible.

There's usually live music or a DJ in the house and after everyone gets their fill and are slightly buzzed, most revelers retreat to the pool to relax or just to keep the party going. I've even seen post-brunch dance parties take shape. It's the perfect start to any weekend.

Courteous question: A little whiskey in your dessert coffee, sir?
Obvious response: Of course, only a proper brunch will do.